Friday, 15 July 2011

Any tips on getting the rear springs out of a Mk1?

I am having a real struggle. Any one have any suggestions. I don't know where to apply the force and what with.

Michael

5 comments:

  1. It depends what state of dis-assembly the car's in! If the chassis is stripped the easiest way is a scaffold tube through the main chassis tube from the front, and knock the springs out. Otherwise it's a case of a long soak in penetrating fluid, a bit of gentle heat to the chassis tube in the area of the aluminium spring holders, and then using a soft drift to ease out the aluminium blocks complete with spring.
    It took me a day to get both sides out using the second method - good luck!

    Andy

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  2. I seem to remember that I used a pointed jemmy levering the spring through the bolt hole against the chassis tube with success and I have now done it twice in 12 years. You may find that the slippers supporting the springs are fractured. I used a billet of industrial plastic which I cut into two parts and "routed" using a half inch drill and massive bastard file to reproduce the form of the original slipper. It was surprisingly easy and have lasted nearly 4 years now.Good Luck
    Nick Woollett

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  3. Thanks for the advice Andy and Nick (and Peter by email). Unfortunately the car isn't stripped to the chassis so I can't get to the front of the chassis tubes without disturbing the nose. So I will be following the plans suggested.

    Problem is that I broke the axle doing Class 0 on the Edinburgh last October. Left the car for six months then when I did take the axle out found the bronze bushes in the spring eyes were so worn the shackle pin had been metal to metal with the spring eye to the detriment of both.

    My plan is to have new springs made with the eyes to suit poly bushes.

    Don't think its going to be ready for Shelsey but I hope to come along on the Saturday.

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  4. From Dave Haley who has computer issues at the moment:-

    I removed my mk1 springs years ago using the scaffold pipe approach. I didn't like what I found. There are a pair of cast aluminium pair of transition / adaptor blocks which fit the square of the springs to the round of the chassis. These were in pieces and the chassis had cracked between the bolt hole and the clamp bar slot. A mobile welder skilfully rewelded the chassis for me.

    Another issue was the spring length forward (towards the front of the car) of the bolt hole was in my opinion too short. this had led to the damage due to high bending stresses in the whole setup.
    This resulted in the purchase of new springs with increased length forward of the bolt and a new transition block machined from a dural billet to a fine tolerance.

    As with all Dellows, there is always a surprise round the corner which has one scratching ones head. In my case, during the process, I discovered that my "original" springs had different numbers of leaves! I still have sketches somewhere (I think) of springs and transition blocks if you would like copies.

    As an aside, during this exercise and using precision equipment I had to measure the chassis tubes and I can confirm the outside diameter is 3.250 inches exactly. the wall thickness is more difficult to establish and the figure used by Dellow Motors when designing the MkV was13 Gauge ( 0.092 inches). this would give an inside diameter of 3.25less .092 x 2 which is 3.066 inches. since I was unaware of the Dellow figure I had my transition blocks machined to 3.085 inches which seemed to work OK with a snug fit of the springs and a liitle help brom a 1lb hammer

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  5. Well I have got the springs out. Many thanks to the advice. Don't think I would have done it without. have posted some pictures here http://dellow.multiply.com/photos/album/40

    After a big clean up I have got to find someone to make new springs and shackles. The plan is to have big spring eyes and use poly bushes.

    Will also need some new retainers as I broke the two top ones getting the springs out.

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